Hidden within the narrow lanes of Varanasi is the Kala Bhairava Temple, where Shiva is worshipped in his fiercest form. The name “Kala Bhairava” translates as time, death, and the color black, signifying the truth that all beings are subject to time and destiny. Kala Bhairava is a manifestation of Shiva embodying his terrifying power, distinct in his role as the guardian of Kashi and the upholder of justice within its sacred precincts. Also spelled as Kaal Bhairav, the temple is located in Bhaironath, Ghasi Tola, Varanasi.
The Myth of Bhairava
The story of Bhairava begins with a conflict between Brahma and Vishnu, each vying for supremacy. To settle their dispute, Shiva appeared as a pillar of infinite light and asked them to discover its source. Overcome by pride, Brahma falsely claimed that he had reached the origin of Shiva’s radiance. To punish this arrogance, Shiva manifested as the fierce Bhairava, who severed Brahma’s fifth head. This act, considered the grave sin of brahmahatya (slaying a Brahmin), condemned Bhairava to wander the world with Brahma’s skull as his begging bowl. His penance ended in Kashi, where the skull finally fell away at Kapalamochana Tirtha, releasing him from the curse. From that moment, Bhairava remained in the city as its eternal guardian, ensuring that no injustice goes unpunished.
Kala Bhairava as the Kotwal of Kashi
While Shiva presides as the supreme lord of Kashi and Annapurna as its nurturing mother, Kala Bhairava is revered as its governor or Kotwal. In most Hindu belief, Yama governs death, but in Varanasi that power rests with Kala Bhairava. He is believed to maintain the karmic records of all who live in the city, absolving sins and guarding devotees. Even death itself, it is said, cannot enter Kashi without his sanction.
The Temple and Worship
The current structure of the Kala Bhairava Temple is believed to date from the 17th century, rebuilt after earlier destruction during invasions. It is located near Maidagin in Varanasi, in an area once associated with ascetic traditions such as the Kapalikas and Nath yogis, who saw Bhairava as the ideal renunciate.
At the entrance, devotees encounter the figure of his vahana, the dog, symbolizing loyalty and vigilance. The sanctum is modest: only Bhairava’s silver-clad face is visible to worshippers, while his full image—described as pot-bellied, seated on his vahana, and wielding a trident—remains veiled.
Spiritual Significance
For centuries, the temple has drawn seekers who come not only to worship but to surrender their burdens, believing that Bhairava devours the sins of those who approach him with sincerity. While many pilgrims visit the better-known Kashi Vishwanath Temple, those aware of the city’s deeper spiritual fabric make it a point to bow before Kala Bhairava. Tradition holds that any pilgrimage to Vishwanath is incomplete without first visiting the Kotwal of Kashi. His presence reminds devotees that liberation in Kashi is not only about divine grace but also about accountability to the guardian who upholds the city’s eternal order.
Nearby places:
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple (~1 km): The sacred Jyotirlinga of Shiva and the spiritual heart of Varanasi
- Mrityunjay Mahadev Mandir (~1 km): A revered Shiva shrine with a holy well linked to healing traditions
- Nepali Mandir (Kathwala Temple) (~1 km): A pagoda-style Shiva temple built by the King of Nepal, famed for its woodwork
- Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple (~1 km): The leaning Shiva temple near Manikarnika Ghat, often partly submerged
- Manikarnika Ghat (~1 km): The holiest cremation ghat, believed to grant liberation to departed souls
- Dashashwamedh Ghat (~1 km): The vibrant ghat known for its evening Ganga Aarti and ritual significance
